Mariana’s Closet
Garb is one of my primary forms of A&S, somewhat by accident and somewhat not. I spend a lot of time making garb to have sufficient for an eventual Pennsic, but also because it makes me feel connected to Mariana much like cooking does. It brings context to Mariana’s world. Also, sometimes your heart just makes grabby hands. I have a pretty extensive list of projects I would eventually like to make as well, and you can find all of that in this spreadsheet (because duh).
Documented Outfits
The Tan Saya
Time period: 15th Century
This outfit is one of me favorite outfits. It is comfortable, made of a gorgeous wool that is warm when it needs to be, but comfortable in the heat too. The outfit as a whole was my first foray into Spain and consists of a camisa, calzas, saya, and cofia, but I can often be seen wearing it with a shawl/wrap and sometimes an apron as well. After several years of stalwart service, I added a few extra inches to the hem and some ribbon decorations to truly dress the part of the middle/upper-middle class woman my persona is. Photo credit: Thomas de Winter at KASF 2023
The Domingo Ram Saya
Time period: 15th Century
This outfit was my first attempt at a direct re-creation from a painting. The painting is of a midwife/servant during the birth of Saint John the Baptist. This saya has a few features I love: it’s my warmest dress by far, due to the heavy wool the gray is made of. It also has a brightly colored lining that peeks out at the collar that I absolutely love. I have some thoughts on how to improve it, but the a key feature on the back is some slits to allow for better range of movement when delivering babies- or shooting crossbows! This outfit has since been retired but I sincerely hope to recreate it someday! Photo credit: Thomas Beebe at Defending the Gate 2022.
The Woman in the Yellow Dress
Time period: 15th Century
Another grabby hands moment. This outfit comes from a painting of Saint Felix Preaching. A woman in a beautifully striped yellow dress sits in the lower right corner and I have attempted to re-create her outfit. This project includes: one appliqued saya, a camisa with an embroidered neckline, a velo, a square-fronted cofia, and two necklaces. This is such an extensive project that it got not one, but three blog posts: the saya and camisa, the headwear, and the jewelry. Picture credit: Thomas de Winter at KASF 2023
Persona Pentathlon Outfit
Time period: 16th Century
This outfit, which includes a red gonete (short jacket), and black and gold vasquiña (skirt), a pair of chapines (cork platform shoes), and a black wool tubular velo (veil) was made for Persona Pentathlon 2024.
General Projects
Sayas
Sayas are the foundational structural garment that I prefer wearing as my base of all of my outfits. They can have waist seams or not, sleeve or not, and can come in a huge variety of colors. Pictured here is the Summer Saya during the one event it went to before my washer ate it, but I have a wide varieties of styles I love. Photo credit: Shaina Cara at Skewered! 3.
Camisas
A camisa is the general term for shirts I use. I make a lot of these, as body linens tend to get dirtier and therefore washed more. There are many different styles, including embroidered and striped options. I favor blackwork as my decoration of choice.
Calzas
Period plausible/accurate from the ground up is always my goal. To this end, and to save myself from the dreaded chafing that comes from having thighs and living in Virginia during summers, I also have several sets of calzas or body garments for legs. These are largely attributed to Moorish influence, but are incredibly comfortable and make a great addition to my wardrobe.
Medias Calzas
Like the calzas above, footwear is also essential to a complete persona. My footwear projects began with one of my favorite things in the world- warm socks. These socks are knitted, but I’m also hoping to make some sewn hose sometime in the near future. They are worn with a set of linen socks underneath them to protect the knitting.
Headwear
On the opposite end of the spectrum, headwear is equally important for comfort and look! My go-to style of cofia is the Saint Birgitta style, which can also be documented to Spain. I have also made some veils and other forms of cofias for other outfits, and someday want to try a rollo. Photo credit: Thomas Beebe at Defending the Gate 2022.
Outerwear
Outerwear in Spain for Mariana would have taken a lot of forms. For my SCA life, it’s mostly warmer clothes for the bitterly cold winters we can get here in Atlantia. I generally prefer shawls, because I can don and doff them easily as weather changes, as it is wont to do. I do also try to give all my dresses optional sleeve attachments, so I can tie on sleeves, like the green ones you see here. Photo credit: Ronan mac imair at Bloodbath 2022.
Formalwear
Occasionally, getting dressed up can be a lot of fun! I don’t do it often, as it does get in the way of working, but I do have a few pieces of formalwear that are near and dear to my heart, including the Green Saya above. Photo credit: Sof’ia Dolgorukaia at Virtual 12th Night 2021.
Jewelry
I have tried my hands a few times at jewelry making, mostly to complete outfits. I’m not very talented at it, but the pieces I do have make me very happy and are versatile to my wardrobe. I will say that most of the jewelry I wear, someone else made and I happened to be lucky enough to buy it or be gifted it.